The best Knives for woodcarving
I've always been particularly fond of carving with a knife, it probably stems from the fact that my original passion was for the knife itself and I started carving after I started making and sharpening knives. My greatest passion has always been for attaining that perfectly sharp edge and I have found that nothing quite compares to the satisfaction of using a sharp edge to shape wood.
There are endless arguments on carving, bushcraft and knife-making forums about what constitutes the best woodcarving knife. How hard should the steel be, should you use carbon steel or stainless, fixed blade or folder, it goes on and on. Equally there are many views on what should be used for sharpening. I don't pretend to have all the answers and I don't pretend to be right, but I can tell you what works for me.
When I carve I like to leave my carvings as they are created by the sharp edge, I mean I do not like to use abrasives and sandpaper does not factor anywhere in my carving kit. I find that if all I am using is a knife or gouges then to get a good finish on a carving I need to use a hard wood. I don't mean a hardwood, as that could refer to anything from Balsa wood to Lignum Vitae. What I mean is that the wood needs to be a particularly hard species rather than the favourite of most whittlers, Lime (Tilia x europea). I particularly like Box (Buxux sempevirens), Apple (Malus), Pear (Pyrus communis) and Maple (Acer campestre).
I prefer fixed blade knives for comfort and strength but I always keep a folder in my pocket in case I get a few minutes to carve in peace. My favourite folder is currently a seahorse Whittler from Case
but I also use a large stockman from Coleman and a single bladed lock knife from EKA, a swedish company. The lock knife, whilst being great in the hand and a really good rough out carver is just too big for everyday carry and your average law enforcement officer would probably arrest me on the spot for carrying it.
For bought fixed bladed knives I don't think you can beat the Scandinavians, their laminated blades with hard steel cores between two softer pieces of steel are just perfect. I have a beautiful little Helle knife which is my largest carving knife.
I also have a couple of Mora Sloyd knives which are very cheap but really well made. I tend towards the opinion that if you find you need a blade which is longer than about 3 inches (75mm) long then get yourself an axe.
Frosts Mora Sloyd
I'll deal with sharpening in detail another time but I just wanted to say that I usually use a range of stones, I have a preference for Arkansas stones for sharpening and I use slate for final honing and polishing. I find that the extremely fine texture of slate provides a perfect honing/stropping surface which does not deform around the edge like leather does and thus strops the blade without affecting it's geometry. I make my own slate strops and use them extensively for both kitchen knives and carving tools.
Whittling for me is more about the therapeutic effect of sitting outside and enjoying the air and countryside whilst keeping hands and eyes busy than it is about the finished article. I'm actually quite disappointed when I finish a carving because it means I have to start again. Especially when it turns out as well as this rose, and yes the keen eyed among you will notice that it is carved from Lime so it doesn't have quite the finish I'd like.
No comments:
Post a Comment